Rio-Carnaval!

 I am writing this piece from the beautiful Brazilian island called Ilha Grande, which is about three hours South of Rio. It has lovely beaches that are mostly accessed by boat, although the more energetic can use the trails. I have elected not to attempt such feats as it is far too hot and humid to contemplate. The island offers much welcome rest bite from Rio, and Carnaval!

Previous experience had led me to stay down in Ipanema as it is an area that is not awash with pickpockets and other miscreants; just travelers and locals mixing in and having a good time in the more upmarket end of town.  Carnaval week started with a group of us having a large one seeing Armand Van Buren at a large and stylish DJ event party by the docks of Gloria. What followed is what I can only describe as the biggest party in the World, bar none. 

I have never witnessed so many people, over so many days, during all hours, in all city districts, party so hard in all of the bars, clubs and most amazingly the streets. They are known as a bloco party and they consist of samba floats and loud beats vibrating the streets, which are full of revelers in all forms of fancy dress. The vibe is incredible as hundreds to thousands of people drink, pose, and dance in the sun. There is a great sense of fun, and togetherness in trying to have the best time of it whilst not missing out on all of it.

I went with some friends to purchase tickets for the actual procession at the Sambdrome , and in that journey we partied at 5 separate bloco’s, without even attempting to find them!  The main carnival itself was a spectacular show which was a thrill to be there after imagining it for so many years. We were in the cheap seats at the end of the parade line. It did, however, offer great views of all of the different dance troupes of each school congregating at the finish line, all cheering each other on. The sequence of dancers and floats lasts for about 75 minutes and the shows are all amazing in their creativity and execution. The best news of all was that my friend Gladys participated in the parade of the winning school, known as de Tijuca.  It felt great to be cheering on the winning team as I was told how the marking system consists of various judges scoring on various aspects of the performance. The Carioca  (inhabitants of Rio) build a purpose built massive open air dance theatre holding 90,000. Magic!

I have met some good people here again in Rio who have all been so friendly and fun to hang with. The hostel more or less retained all of its guests over the period so it was a good chance to settle in instead of adjusting to new comers. I shall definitely be back here again for it and I urge you to make similar plans.

Next stop Patagonia, which has been on my to go list for a long time now. Can't wait!

Peace

G

The Streeets of San Telmo, Buenos Aires

It has been about three weeks since my last blog. During the first week here in Buenos Aires I found myself partying along with everybody else. My arrival here from Iguazu was smooth and I had little trouble settling into the European style vibe in this great city. 

The main reason I wanted to come here now was to study and to practice some Spanish. After three weeks of classes I have certainly learnt a great deal but I still have a long way to go before I feel entirely at ease. It is not so much the speaking if one is initiating the conversation, it is the listening and understanding of others, especially in large and loud groups.

An advantage of going to the college is that it has allowed me to stay in a family’s home, along with about ten fellow language students. I realize that after two months it is the first time that I have actually stayed on my own in my own en-suite room, without having to deal with anyone else. Bliss!  And to top it all off it has a TV which receives ESPN and the Premier League games. Perfecto!

Going out here is fairly easy; the taxis are cheap, no real door policy at bars and clubs, and they stay open between 5-7 am all week.  I took the opportunity to play in a live jam session at one particular cool bar in the barrio of Palermo.  Whilst playing on stage, I felt at home in BA and with its whole music vibe. Musicians play everywhere here and it is great to hear them play and dance so well.

The challenges one has to face here include: keeping appointments on time as journeys tend to take longer than ever anticipated; avoiding the dog poo and general rubbish which pervades most streets; keeping cool in the 30deg plus heat; and eating well.

For all the talk of their beef I have been disappointed with the overall cuisine and variety on offer. The food on offer at the cheaper cafes and restaurants rarely stray from very average pizza to beef steak sandwiches that resemble a breeze block! At the more expensive restaurants it is possible to order fish and vegetables, however, the by far the best thing to do if possible is to cook at home if the kitchen is up to it.

Overall, Buenos Aires is a cool city in so many ways and probably unique in the Americas for being as modern as it is.  I have met some really cool people here who have come from the UK and are making it work for them here and it is encouraging and inspiring to know them.

My next stop is Rio again, this time for Carnival which I am really looking forward to. I have some idea of what to expect and it feels good to be returning to somewhere which I am already familiar. At least I know that eating well here is so much easier, especially at the per kilo restaurants. I can’t wait. Vamos!