It is now three months since I departed the UK, where I now find myself in Patagonia; an area that straddles Argentina and Chile, and possesses one of the lowest population densities anywhere in the World. I have wished to come here for many years, since I first experienced the awesome splendor of the Nepali Himalayas so it was a trill and a relief to arrive here.
The town of Ushuaia, Argentina is the Southernmost anywhere and a world away from Buenos Aires, if not a three flight. At this point one is not that far away either from the Falkland Islands and indeed Antarctica. I am tempted to spend around USD 4,000 to go there but perhaps I should wait until another time, when I can get my good friend Richard onboard also ( he first put the idea out there when we were in Cape Town many years ago). The Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (fire earth) is here and hosts, penguins, sea lions and whales and has a host of tour companies that send boats out into the Beagle Channel to these creatures in the their natural habitat.
After an 18 hour coach trip north through bleak, beautiful and desolate countryside, there are the towns of El Calafete, El Chalten and the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. To witness the incredible Glaciar Perio Moreno shed its ice from its face as it steadily advances about two metres a day is spectacular. The day before I arrive there, I am informed that its ice arch has finally collapsed into the river; an event that occurs about once every four years or so with its remnants floating away. The event occurs at about 3am in the morning ( as it did the previous time) so no one but the time-lapse cameras actually witness it.
The Fitz Roy range next to El Chalten, which is within the national park is stunning and offers numerous day treks into the mountain range without the need for any bus transfer. It is the sort of place that I could easily revisit with my tent and sleeping bag so that I could catch the sunrise rays illuminating the snow covered rock faces.
To travel in Patagonia usually means crossing the border between Argentina and Chile a few times, so it is advisable to have plenty of pages in ones passport! As I write, I am travelling on a four day cruise ship journey through the islands, fjords and glaciers off the Southwestern coast of Chile. It is enchanting, beautiful and somewhat windy journey to the Lakes District; a place for adventure, wine tasting and so much more I am told.
Ciao for now.
No comments:
Post a Comment