The Dentist's Chair

From Puebla, Oacaxa, Mexico.

I cannot think of many other situations which can induce more apprehension than a visit to the dentist. To go for a scheduled biannual check-up in one own's country is one thing, but knowing that I have to find a dentist in a non English speaking other in order to have a filling replaced, is quite another. I have already primed myself with some relevant Spanish verbs and nouns which I ended up using to the young dentist and his even younger assistant. I was not expecting great news after not having been to a dentist since the Autumn before I left, but ninety minutes later, after my new replacement filling and a hygiene session, I was good to go.

Now, to be charged 300 pesos (18GBP) for all of his time, skill and effort differs vastly from any previous under-cooked experience I have had in my own country.  I will bear this in mind the next time I visit these parts. And here it is, for all of you that are interested.

Peace.

Copacabana – no, not that one, the other one!

Yes another wonderful place that is within a couple of hours of La Paz is the small town called Copacabana. It lies on the edge of the largest lake in South America, Lake Titicaca which, were it not for its cold water, would be one hell of a place for water sports and partying.  Perhaps this is for the best as it is venerated for having a rich, ancient past and historical communities on the mainland and its islands.

I really needed to have a few days in a hotel after spending what feels like months in dorm rooms. My wish list has come true because for 5 GBP a night I have a large room with a view of the harbor boats on the lake, cable TV, WI-FI and a private bathroom with hot water. To be able to watch some French Open Tennis like this is bliss and the ESPN previews of Wimbledon catch me missing home somewhat. I really do miss playing tennis right now out here so I hope to be able to figure something out, preferably at sea level and not 4K metres high!

Small 40ft boats with Yamaha outboard motors ferry people to the Isla del Sol and its very relaxed and simple lifestyle. I now have a third object to carry – my Suzuki semi-acoustic, red sunburst guitar – which I manage to drop the first time due to my forgetting about having it one my person! My simple needs are satisfied yet again when I manage to find a room situated on a hill overlooking the expansive lake and some of the white-capped Andean mountain range beyond. It is the same range that I saw much closer up whilst trekking in Sorata a few weeks previously.

My room on the hill

My commitment to now carrying a guitar feels like a worthy one as I play and sing with others staying with me during the day, around the night camp fire, at the most happening (and only!) bar in the village and at the beach. It is a bit crazy to be playing Stairway to Heaven twenty odd years after first learning how to play this maligned song, but it seems to drop very easily out here, where any sort of live entertainment is gratefully received and praised. A great thing about being here is that I have found somewhere that for once, does not think that playing loud crap DJ music means that a good time can be had! (am I now sounding a bit old?!)  Hell, I am old! Do I really need to be the eldest person in a hostel bar?!

So, apart from the cold lake water and the energy sapping altitude, Lake T is a beautiful and grounding place to be. My mind is also taken back to the jungle town of Rurrenaque and how peaceful that place also was and how I feel I would like to go back there for more time, now with my guitar, picking away at nothing in particular tune as yet another one of those classic water sun sets happen one more time.

La Paz – The highs and the lows and Jungle inbetween

Flying into La Paz in decadent fashion is not the norm as most travelers arrive by bus, but at 50GBP it feels like a valid splurge. I had imagined that it would be so high that one would struggle to even lift an arm to drink a beer. Fortunately, this not the case, as many a party goer proves otherwise in the Wild Rover Hostel. It is a place to stay where everyone is up for a good time and I very much welcome the very friendly atmosphere around.  My first day nerves are eased when I meet up again with some travelers with whom I partied with in Rio for Carnaval.  In fact, La Paz is a kind of traveler bottleneck where they stay far longer than planned.
The hostel’s karaoke themed night is just one big piss up so no chance to deliver one of my crooner songs. But the Killer Pool competition is rightly won by yours truly and thus my status and notoriety increase-unlevelled table and very average cues aside!

It's hilly in town!

One of La Paz’ greatest attractions are its surrounding attractions. One hears so much about The Death Road that it would be rude to not go down it at dangerous speed on a double suspension mountain bike, on a journey that takes much of the day. There used to be many fatalities until the new road was completed. That said, I heard of a car that had gone over the perilous side very recently, so nothing can ever be taken for granted when ‘doing it’.  My long time riding experience was a great help as I find that going faster makes it marginally safer because one can ride over the bumps, stones, rocks and dust. I could easily do it all over again it was that much fun.

I am up there somewhere

Eating a good pizza in a restaurant in Potosi was the first time that I had seen a travel poster of the hills surrounding Sorata, a town two hours north of La Paz.  So the offer by some friends to go there and trek to the Laguna Chillata and its glacial at 5,100 metres is too good to turn down. It also offers me the opportunity to get out of the city for a while. So three days, two friends, two mules and one guide/cook later I find myself camping out in nighttime temperatures that have me longing for the really good sleeping bag I bought last year in anticipation of this adventure (it got the final thumbs down very late in the packing stages). At times, whilst walking through the meadows I can only think of Julie Andrews in the opening to A Sound of Music!

Robben, you let me down bad!

A trip to Bolivia’s Amazon, The Pampas, is my first chance to experience it, and to also be somewhere near sea level for a time. I did not know what to expect to see so it was great to see so much wildlife, and to also be able to capture much of it well on camera. This is where my camera with its x36 zoom came into its own as all of the tree dwelling animals were well within my sights. The people on my tour are all so much fun to hang with:  in the rustic dorm rooms, the slow chugging boat trips and the partying in the town of Rurrenabaque (On the flight there from La Paz, it feels as if we are going to fly directly into the massive Huayna Potosí mountain).  My highlight is catching not one, but two piranhas using but a nylon string with hook and some meat on its end.  I don’t recall ever catching a fish before so to be the 'fisher king' feels very satisfying! Also, seeing a sloth doing not a lot in a tree reminds me a lot of myself at times!

Ah, dinner!

This guy sees a lot of himself in me.

The Parque Nacional Madidi is one of the South America’s gems in terms of wildlife and natural diversity and it just happens to be nearby, so the jungle tour just has to be done.  The two hour boat ride up the Rio Beni is a joy as the river breeze is much needed.  I was not so sure how I would cope in the Amazon but it was wonderful to witness pigs, monkeys, dazzling parrots and tarantulas doing their natural thing.  It is not for everyone - the night trek in the jungle could break a person of faint heart!

Heading back to La Paz

My return to La Paz means that my numerous mosquito back bites can heal and I can concentrate on purchasing a guitar, which has been sorely missed over these last six months of travel.

Sweet Sucre

After the lofty heights of Potosi, the city of Sucre is a very welcoming respite as it is about 2,000 metres less in altitude and quite different in attitude. It takes pride in calling itself the capital of the country despite the rest of the World recognizing La Paz as its premier city.  It feels like the most pleasant town for us gringos to rest up after either traversing the Salar or the partying in La Paz.

One of Sucre's pretty squares 

There are a few Dutch owned bars here which is perfect for hosting the celebrations for the Dutch Queen’s birthday, as well as any other reason for going out.  It is also one of the cheapest and easiest places to enroll in a school and to learn some Spanish. Me Gusta is the school that I have chosen to spend two weeks to learn.  I have also chosen to stay with a local family which is a great way to be in the language so much more than by staying in a hostel. I have so much respect for all those students who come to the UK to study and live.

Some of the boys working their Spanish at the homestay

 It is not until one attempts to seriously learn another language that one can appreciate just how difficult and rewarding it can be.  To be able to live in a country/continent for an extended time is priceless in my being able to ‘test-drive’ what I have been taught. I am beginning to relish the challenge of communicating in situations such as buying tickets, ordering food and buying stuff in shops. It does not always work out but as long as it does not cost me money or too much embarrassment then that is fine.

Another road block

Demonstrations continue to overshadow the genial atmosphere of Sucre. The doctors and transport workers are united in not allowing the government to increase their working hours for the same pay. I support their cause but it can be a real challenge to travel when there are daily road blocks.   Direct action appears to be the way of things here and I am told that it is generally successful.

I am sad to be leaving this town but I will take with me some lovely memories such as singing Karaoke in Spanish and feeling like I was part of a more natural style of living with the locals.

Sun, Sand, Salt & Surrealism

I had heard a lot about this area from my fellow traveler friends so I arrive here with great anticipation. I had also read that Dali had visited here and was inspired by it so much that it heavily influenced his work, so I was eager to see his art in this landscape.

The main reason this amazing landscape is shaped the way that it is because any rain which falls on the plateau does not drain away due to the non-porous rock base. Its evaporation in the hot and dry climate along with it interaction with all of the volcanic minerals creates lots and lots of salt.

The Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flat in the World, and it, alongside the crazy rock formations, high altitude, blazing sun and miles of infinite flatness make for a mind bending experience. There also exist underground rivers which create steam when they are heated by volcanic larvae. This produces fields of active geysers that are just incredible to be in the midst of.

The opportunity to attend a good old rave up on the Salar (salt flat) is far too enticing to pass up on. To feel as if one is dancing on snow when it is in fact salt is a strange. The cold is too much to bear for me after 4am so I retreat to the hostel in the middle of nowhere that is constructed of blocks of salt as I witness all the craziness going on all around me. In the morning I can see a hot air balloon being filled up and I am told by a friend that I can return to Uyuni town on it.  This proves not to be the case as it transpires that it is only going up and down so as to offer superb sunrise views of the Salar. This is what can happen when there is a preposition translation issue when the balloon company is named after the town!

The party crew are all top people and I know that we will all be friends for a long time to come, so shout outs go to Zane, Lisa, Carl, Lisa and Santiago.

Now time for some civilization in Potosi. Peace.

Lost and Found in the Atacama Desert

Being without the facility to draw cash out is a pain, whereas not being able to do so whilst in a small town in the middle of the desert when tours and transportation need to be booked is a serious situation.  Fortunately, with my mother’s help I am able to order a new card have its details sent to me and the moment standing at the ATM with the sound of cash being counted in the machine is such a big relief.

Main Street in San Pedro de Atacama

The tours in question can all be arranged in the quant desert town called San Pedro de Atacama, which feels, and is, in the middle of nowhere. It is where one can venture out into the desert which is defined by hot springs,volcanic mountains, steaming geysers, minerals, salt lakes and great wildlife. Late night drinking is also the order of the evening which can make getting up to visit the sights a little tricky when attempting to awake for a 4am start!  I have never been to Israel and its Dead Sea but Chile has its equivalent here and it is strangely wonderful to be floating around in a lake having 30% salinity.

Trying to drown in this stuff!

The town also serves as the stepping stone for getting across the Chilean border and into Bolivia. 4x4 vehicles are loaded up with up to six people and drive across the desert over three days to arrive at a town called Uyuni, Bolivia.  The whole experience leaves a deep impression because the stunning landscape is unique to the rest of the World. Getting on with the other travelers in a tightly squeezed van can test ones tolerance! So despite being in the middle of a massive desert, one is actually rarely alone. Venturing too far off from the touring group could result in being left behind in some pretty inhospitable  and unforgiving terrain!

Flamingos grazing on some delicious algae!

Wow!

This feels like the next phase of my journey as departing Chile is to leave behind the most expensive countries in South America. I have been told that Bolivia is cheap as chips which will provide welcome relief to my spending rate!

See you in Bolivia! Peace.

La Serena – The Night Watchman

The dictionary states that Sereno is a masculine noun meaning the above, but it also states that it is an adjective meaning calm, peaceful and unruffled. After having spent six days here in this delightful place, I did feel muy tranquillo. Travellers and Chileans are thinking about where they will be over the Easter weekend. The country more or less shuts down on the Sunday with the days either side, its transport system attempts to fulfil our destination needs. My decision of the day is whether to travel Northwards either through Chile or Argentina. Chile has won out.

Therefore, I have made the small city of La Serena my next stop where the guided book promises a relaxing time. The main attraction here for me is the International Observatories and the chance to see a telescope working out in the field of choice for astronomers – the clear Chilean skies (as opposed to a mock-up one in London).  It also offers the added attractions of being near to pisco vineyards (Chile’s national spirit of choice which is used to make its famous pisco sour), and also being near to the Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt, where, you’ve guessed it, penguins reside year-round. And who would not wish to witness these creatures doing their natural thing?

The Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca offers the chance to view the stars through a 30cm diameter telescope and the guide gives both astronomical and astrological presentations that are both informative and interesting. For example, did you know that Venus has a day longer than its year! That is to say, the time it takes to revolve around the Sun (225 Earth days) is less than the time it takes to spin once around its own axis (243 Earth days).  

As we are about three hours shy of a full moon, the night sky is too illuminant to see as many stars as at other times, but at least it means that we can observe the Moon very well. We are informed that the best time to see our galaxy in its entirety is between June-August. This is due to the Earth’s positioning at this time of the year in relation the galaxy plane.  Enough physics for one day I think!

The Valle Del Elqui is a beautiful verdant valley surrounded by hot and dry earth, which I always find rather striking.  It has Pisco distilleries and New Age travelers who settle here and sell their artisan range of UFO centric jewelery, minerals and tie-dye clothing. I even buy a ring which changes colour according to my mood. Today it is blue so I am meant to be feeling Relajado.

Lunch consists of chicken at a restaurant which cooks its meat in solar heated ovens. What a good idea!

Our tour guide, Alan, talks for Chile into his microphone in a strangely odd tone of English which I reason he has picked up from his English Grandfather’s side of his family. Throughout the day I practice saying Inglaterra  with its rolling rrrr sound to him whenever relevant, to which he then responds in jest, then later initiating. During one of his afternoon soliloquies to the tour bus group he prompts me, but unbeknownst to him, or to anyone else, I am fast asleep behind my sunglasses. Only the gentle prodding of my delightful neighbour awakes me whereupon I pronounce Inglaterra once more a few embarrassing seconds later than he wished for. This did amuse me and a few others rather. But what is one to do when one is feeling hot and tired of the bellows of an uninteresting tour guides voice I ask?

The Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt consists of a series of three small islands where sea lions, penguins, cormorans and sea lions inhabit year round. I love being out on the sea on smaller boats during clement weather and to see such wildlife is wonderful. Jorge, our tour guide this time is a delight to be with as he is funny, very well informed, relaxed and just knows how and when to say the right things. In other words, he is not in love with the sound of his own voice!

The old fashioned place that I stay is very chilled as it is run by a family. Despite the place showing signs of neglect, it has a homely charm given by the use of old family bed linen of cartoon characters, the three cats wistfully playing in the garden of old sofa furniture. Maritza, her brother, son and cleaner are such charming hosts and I relish practicing my Spanish as we hang out in the kitchen (thank you Google Translate also!). I just love the quirkiness of choosing to stay in a place which is not advertised online or in the guidebook, because you just never know what you will find.

Despite having my trainers stolen from a department store changing room and my also losing my wallet at the bus station as I depart, I am sad to be leaving as I know that I have left and made some lovely Chilean friends there.