The dictionary states that Sereno is a masculine noun meaning the above, but it also states that it is an adjective meaning calm, peaceful and unruffled. After having spent six days here in this delightful place, I did feel muy tranquillo. Travellers and Chileans are thinking about where they will be over the Easter weekend. The country more or less shuts down on the Sunday with the days either side, its transport system attempts to fulfil our destination needs. My decision of the day is whether to travel Northwards either through Chile or Argentina. Chile has won out.
Therefore, I have made the small city of La Serena my next stop where the guided book promises a relaxing time. The main attraction here for me is the International Observatories and the chance to see a telescope working out in the field of choice for astronomers – the clear Chilean skies (as opposed to a mock-up one in London). It also offers the added attractions of being near to pisco vineyards (Chile’s national spirit of choice which is used to make its famous pisco sour), and also being near to the Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt, where, you’ve guessed it, penguins reside year-round. And who would not wish to witness these creatures doing their natural thing?
The Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca offers the chance to view the stars through a 30cm diameter telescope and the guide gives both astronomical and astrological presentations that are both informative and interesting. For example, did you know that Venus has a day longer than its year! That is to say, the time it takes to revolve around the Sun (225 Earth days) is less than the time it takes to spin once around its own axis (243 Earth days).
As we are about three hours shy of a full moon, the night sky is too illuminant to see as many stars as at other times, but at least it means that we can observe the Moon very well. We are informed that the best time to see our galaxy in its entirety is between June-August. This is due to the Earth’s positioning at this time of the year in relation the galaxy plane. Enough physics for one day I think!
The Valle Del Elqui is a beautiful verdant valley surrounded by hot and dry earth, which I always find rather striking. It has Pisco distilleries and New Age travelers who settle here and sell their artisan range of UFO centric jewelery, minerals and tie-dye clothing. I even buy a ring which changes colour according to my mood. Today it is blue so I am meant to be feeling Relajado.
Lunch consists of chicken at a restaurant which cooks its meat in solar heated ovens. What a good idea!
Our tour guide, Alan, talks for Chile into his microphone in a strangely odd tone of English which I reason he has picked up from his English Grandfather’s side of his family. Throughout the day I practice saying Inglaterra with its rolling rrrr sound to him whenever relevant, to which he then responds in jest, then later initiating. During one of his afternoon soliloquies to the tour bus group he prompts me, but unbeknownst to him, or to anyone else, I am fast asleep behind my sunglasses. Only the gentle prodding of my delightful neighbour awakes me whereupon I pronounce Inglaterra once more a few embarrassing seconds later than he wished for. This did amuse me and a few others rather. But what is one to do when one is feeling hot and tired of the bellows of an uninteresting tour guides voice I ask?
The Parque Nacional Pinguino de Humboldt consists of a series of three small islands where sea lions, penguins, cormorans and sea lions inhabit year round. I love being out on the sea on smaller boats during clement weather and to see such wildlife is wonderful. Jorge, our tour guide this time is a delight to be with as he is funny, very well informed, relaxed and just knows how and when to say the right things. In other words, he is not in love with the sound of his own voice!
The old fashioned place that I stay is very chilled as it is run by a family. Despite the place showing signs of neglect, it has a homely charm given by the use of old family bed linen of cartoon characters, the three cats wistfully playing in the garden of old sofa furniture. Maritza, her brother, son and cleaner are such charming hosts and I relish practicing my Spanish as we hang out in the kitchen (thank you Google Translate also!). I just love the quirkiness of choosing to stay in a place which is not advertised online or in the guidebook, because you just never know what you will find.
Despite having my trainers stolen from a department store changing room and my also losing my wallet at the bus station as I depart, I am sad to be leaving as I know that I have left and made some lovely Chilean friends there.
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