So Santiago!

I had developed the incorrect impression that Chile’s capital, Santiago was very much the poorer relation of Buenos Aires. In fact, it has much of what BA can offer but without the prospect of being mugged, dissed or stepping into dog poo on every corner. Smog rules this city the same way it does in Athens and Mexico City (I think) which is a pity, as the Andes Mountains would otherwise provide a stunning backdrop to proceedings. The city can rightly pride its artistic self because the street wall art and paintings, sculptures and contemporary art relief work that can be found in many of the metro stations, for example, means that no art gallery need be entered on a hot sunny day in order to get a daily uplifting and thought provoking fix around town.

The city walking tours are a great way of appreciating this manageable city with its busy markets (I just loved the dedicated avocado shop), well maintained squares, new and old photogenic buildings extremely friendly inhabitants. Even the street dogs are super friendly and look healthier than any others I have seen anywhere in the World. 

However, it is a pity that the completed work on an upstream dam has resulted in the city’s main artery, the Rio Mapocho, to not be the river that it once was, as something went badly wrong in either the planning or execution of the restoration process. 

Due to my needing to get a move on in my Northerly migration through South America, I cannot spend enough time here, but it gives me yet another good reason to return to this wonderful town and country.

Peace

Hot springs and even Hotter Collars!

Just outside the town of Pucon, Chile, there are the Termas Los Pozones, a complex having series of six hot spring pools down in a valley. My idea was to have a relaxing soak and do some star gazing after trekking up and down the Volcan Villarrica. The problem commenced as my minibus picked up a gang of young, French, drunken adolescents and went downhill from there. Drinking is prohibited but it did not stop most groups taking in alcohol masqueraded in coke or water bottles, or not at all. Now, I love a drink but when people start to have loud disagreements in and around the pools it really is not cool.  Two of the  patrons were patrolling with torches for alcohol just like German soldiers around a POW camp perimeter!

If their actions seem a trifle heavy handed then think again: the evening ended around midnight when we saw the flashing lights of a police vehicle and yet another situation. I later found out that a wine bottle had dropped and smashed into one of the pools. I do not know the upshot but I am sure it was one big hassle to say the least.  There is something to be said for paying higher end prices in order to exclude much of the idiocy of others.

Yours unhappily!

Heavenly Lakes and Dharma

The Lakes District is an area which can cater for the needs of most people in terms of trekking, touring, adventure and adrenaline activities and sight-seeing. I was not sure what I was going to do here but I upon arriving in Puerto Montt in Chile, it was apparent that the Chilean people were all very friendly, self-respecting and welcoming; much more so than elsewhere I had experienced (I have come to conclude they are thus because the population is about 80% Catholic and evidence would suggest that a large proportion are practicing ones, unlike what I have seen in much of either Argentina or Brazil).

Puerto Varas, Chile - Puerto Varas is a small town on the coast whose German design and feel is as a result of many of them immigrating to Patagonia during the previous two centuries.  It was not what I was I was expecting but it helped to provide a relaxing environment, even if it didn’t feel very South American.  Chile’s supermarkets have goods that are just not sold elsewhere, and this is due to its free trade with the US. It was also gratifying to see whole roasting chickens turning on spits at the deli counter! 

My hostel was a nice one to  relax in after spending four days on a boat. It has a guitar hanging around, and I can never resist banging out some pop tunes for others to sing along with. In fact, I have heard more Western rock and pop music here than I ever expected in the hostels, bars buses. They also love the band A-ha and so I often ponder just how much these former pop stars receive in royalties across the globe.

Cochamo, Chile - After a few days of catching up with myself in a comfortable quite, private room with a double bed, I decided to go to the Cochamo valley for some trekking. This was only  after being informed by others that it was a beautiful valley resembling  Yosemite National Park in the US. Good enough for me then as this is a place on my ‘to visit’ list. This gorgeous valley is only accessible by foot, horse and helicopter. I elected to go by horse firstly because I did not wish to carry my gear, and secondly, I really wanted to ride a horse again after such a long time.  I was just amazed at just how a horse could negotiate such muddy and rocky terrain with up and down gradients with such care and ease. I also surprised myself that I could handle sitting on and holding on with ease, notwithstanding a bout of saddle rash. Ouch!

The refugio in which I stayed felt like a ranch in the middle of nowhere, which it is, and has much rustic charm. Being run by two lovely Argentinian women who spoke hardly any English gave me a much needed opportunity to practice some Spanish. The treks themselves were some of the hardest that I have undertaken due to their gradient but the beauty of the forests and mountains more than made up for my aches and pains.

Bariloche, Argentina- After a few days I headed back into Argentina and to the fairly large town of Bariloche- famed for its chocolate, lakes and skiing in addition to all the usual adventure activities on offer. I again elected not to do too much here apart from hang out in the evenings playing pool and making friends at the hostel. I did spent one day sharing a car hire with a good group of boys from Israel to visit the famed seven lakes. It was fun to drive again after three months and to skid around on some rough road, albeit on the right hand side and left hand drive.

Pucon, Chile - After another few days it was back across to Chile and to Pucon and its massive volcano. This small town has its own cozy alpine style look and feel to it and is where I took the chance to have some fun. The climb up to the top of the volcano was quite arduous but the group of six was good value and the reward for scaling it was to witness an active volcanic hole bellowing out acrid sulphur (enough to induce quite a headache) and great panoramic views. 

Another day was spent canyoning and canopying in the beautiful surrounding forest. Canyoning involves abseiling down waterfalls of about 100 metres and into cold waters, surrounded by an ethereal circular formed rainbow around me (I really do hope that the photos taken of me are sent by the large and young Israeli group I did the activity with). It was special fun to hang out in thin air on a rope, however, the next time I will ensure that I am not doing it with a load of tiresome, loud, stupid and irritating female Israeli’s!  Canopying was fast and fun as I zip lined back and forth across the valley for an hour.  I may receive some pics of this event also if I am lucky.

The problem is that as I no longer possess my small party camera, and I cannot expect anyone to take a half decent pic with my larger Nikon, I am currently relying on others to take pics  involving anything to do with crazy parties, heights and water. I shall consider investing in one again at some point.

I also paid a visit to a hot springs complex in order to relax my weary limbs, but more of that episode later.

Peace.

What’s in a name ?

I have decided to start using one of my other middle names as my forename whilst travelling in Latin America. The main reason is that the Spanish language does not really handle my name very well and its pronunciation is challenge for many here. They are just not used to the ry syllable and I am becoming fed up correcting it. The name Nicholas is commonplace, especially here in Argentina and I also like having three syllables instead of just two as it will then have a kind of symmetry with my surname.

I know that it will feel quite strange at first; that I will have to modify many things such as my mindset, introductions with others, my online presence and other many other situations that I haven’t even thought of as yet. I also like the idea of being named after a Saint, which can never a bad thing. My mother even uses her third name as her forename, as I believe is the custom in countries such as France and Spain.

I look forward to this experiment and seeing how much it changes things. Watch this space.

Peace

Nicholas!

Patagonia – The End of the World

It is now three months since I departed the UK, where I now find myself in Patagonia; an area that straddles Argentina and Chile, and possesses one of the lowest population densities anywhere in the World. I have wished to come here for many years, since I first experienced the awesome splendor of the Nepali Himalayas so it was a trill and a relief to arrive here.

The town of Ushuaia, Argentina is the Southernmost anywhere and a world away from Buenos Aires, if not a three flight. At this point one is not that far away either from the Falkland Islands and indeed Antarctica.  I am tempted to spend around USD 4,000 to go there but perhaps I should wait until another time, when I can get my good friend Richard onboard also ( he first put the idea out there when we were in Cape Town many years ago).  The Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (fire earth) is here and hosts, penguins, sea lions and whales and has a host of tour companies that send boats out into the Beagle Channel to these creatures in the their natural habitat.

After an 18 hour coach trip north through bleak, beautiful and desolate countryside, there are the towns of El Calafete, El Chalten and the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. To witness the incredible Glaciar Perio Moreno shed its ice from its face as it steadily advances about two metres a day is spectacular. The day before I arrive there, I am informed that its ice arch has finally collapsed into the river; an event that occurs about once every four years or so with its remnants floating away.  The event occurs at about 3am in the morning ( as it did the previous time) so no one but the time-lapse cameras actually witness it.

The Fitz Roy range next to El Chalten, which is within the national park is stunning and offers numerous day treks into the mountain range without the need for any bus transfer. It is the sort of place that I could easily revisit with my tent and sleeping bag so that I could catch the sunrise rays illuminating the snow covered rock faces.

To travel in Patagonia usually means crossing the border between Argentina and Chile a few times, so it is advisable to have plenty of pages in ones passport! As I write, I am travelling on a four day cruise ship journey through the islands, fjords and glaciers off the Southwestern coast of Chile. It is enchanting, beautiful and somewhat windy journey to the Lakes District; a place for adventure, wine tasting and so much more I am told.

Ciao for now.

A Setting Sun in the big cities

We have come at the end of February and my last two days in Buenos Aires, where I have given myself the luxury of staying in a private single room in a friendly, quiet hostel that attracts the more mature traveler.  This is just what I need after the excesses of the previous festivities. It feels like the end of the first stage of my journey; a feeling that I expected because my flight was booked before my initial departure.

 I have decided to use my time here to rest, to catch up with some friends and source some decent books to read. I am not a convert to electronic books and I have concerns that I will not find what I want to read. I am yet to find a second hand English language book exchange shop the like of which that are prevalent in India, here in Argentina or Brazil. Fortunately I do find a really good one back in San Telmo and buy three books which will give me enough engrossing reading material for the next month or so. This will be supplemented by my Spanish exercises that still remain to be completed from the classes I took last month. I greet every successful Spanish conversation with a local with a smile of satisfaction as if it were a small victory in my war with words.

Another task I have set myself is to also procure some half decent underwear! From what I have seen thus far, the shops mostly sell pants made from polyester. What kind of people  are they out here? All I want to do is to walk into a department store to select and pay for decent boxers without having a conversation about it in one of the many smaller mens’ shops.  My quest is finally over when I see a Zara store in the upmarket barrio of Ricoleta.  Bingo! My friend Ali and I still have to discern between the cotton and synthetic underwear but I finally find what I need so much after two months of relative discomfort!

Due to government  import restrictions,  many items are just not available here in Argentina; the most surprising of which are guitar plectrums.  I can’t be certain whether the country manufactures these harmless bits of plastic, but I was told by a salesperson in a well-stocked musical instrument shop that he had none to sell.  I suspect that Argentina is getting by, but not in a way in which they are now used to. Time for me to cut to size a plectrum or two from my shaving cream can top!

Next stop Ushuaia - 'the town at the end of the World' , well the nearest one to the Falkland Islands.

Peace

G

Rio-Carnaval!

 I am writing this piece from the beautiful Brazilian island called Ilha Grande, which is about three hours South of Rio. It has lovely beaches that are mostly accessed by boat, although the more energetic can use the trails. I have elected not to attempt such feats as it is far too hot and humid to contemplate. The island offers much welcome rest bite from Rio, and Carnaval!

Previous experience had led me to stay down in Ipanema as it is an area that is not awash with pickpockets and other miscreants; just travelers and locals mixing in and having a good time in the more upmarket end of town.  Carnaval week started with a group of us having a large one seeing Armand Van Buren at a large and stylish DJ event party by the docks of Gloria. What followed is what I can only describe as the biggest party in the World, bar none. 

I have never witnessed so many people, over so many days, during all hours, in all city districts, party so hard in all of the bars, clubs and most amazingly the streets. They are known as a bloco party and they consist of samba floats and loud beats vibrating the streets, which are full of revelers in all forms of fancy dress. The vibe is incredible as hundreds to thousands of people drink, pose, and dance in the sun. There is a great sense of fun, and togetherness in trying to have the best time of it whilst not missing out on all of it.

I went with some friends to purchase tickets for the actual procession at the Sambdrome , and in that journey we partied at 5 separate bloco’s, without even attempting to find them!  The main carnival itself was a spectacular show which was a thrill to be there after imagining it for so many years. We were in the cheap seats at the end of the parade line. It did, however, offer great views of all of the different dance troupes of each school congregating at the finish line, all cheering each other on. The sequence of dancers and floats lasts for about 75 minutes and the shows are all amazing in their creativity and execution. The best news of all was that my friend Gladys participated in the parade of the winning school, known as de Tijuca.  It felt great to be cheering on the winning team as I was told how the marking system consists of various judges scoring on various aspects of the performance. The Carioca  (inhabitants of Rio) build a purpose built massive open air dance theatre holding 90,000. Magic!

I have met some good people here again in Rio who have all been so friendly and fun to hang with. The hostel more or less retained all of its guests over the period so it was a good chance to settle in instead of adjusting to new comers. I shall definitely be back here again for it and I urge you to make similar plans.

Next stop Patagonia, which has been on my to go list for a long time now. Can't wait!

Peace

G