What’s in a name ?

I have decided to start using one of my other middle names as my forename whilst travelling in Latin America. The main reason is that the Spanish language does not really handle my name very well and its pronunciation is challenge for many here. They are just not used to the ry syllable and I am becoming fed up correcting it. The name Nicholas is commonplace, especially here in Argentina and I also like having three syllables instead of just two as it will then have a kind of symmetry with my surname.

I know that it will feel quite strange at first; that I will have to modify many things such as my mindset, introductions with others, my online presence and other many other situations that I haven’t even thought of as yet. I also like the idea of being named after a Saint, which can never a bad thing. My mother even uses her third name as her forename, as I believe is the custom in countries such as France and Spain.

I look forward to this experiment and seeing how much it changes things. Watch this space.

Peace

Nicholas!

Patagonia – The End of the World

It is now three months since I departed the UK, where I now find myself in Patagonia; an area that straddles Argentina and Chile, and possesses one of the lowest population densities anywhere in the World. I have wished to come here for many years, since I first experienced the awesome splendor of the Nepali Himalayas so it was a trill and a relief to arrive here.

The town of Ushuaia, Argentina is the Southernmost anywhere and a world away from Buenos Aires, if not a three flight. At this point one is not that far away either from the Falkland Islands and indeed Antarctica.  I am tempted to spend around USD 4,000 to go there but perhaps I should wait until another time, when I can get my good friend Richard onboard also ( he first put the idea out there when we were in Cape Town many years ago).  The Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (fire earth) is here and hosts, penguins, sea lions and whales and has a host of tour companies that send boats out into the Beagle Channel to these creatures in the their natural habitat.

After an 18 hour coach trip north through bleak, beautiful and desolate countryside, there are the towns of El Calafete, El Chalten and the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. To witness the incredible Glaciar Perio Moreno shed its ice from its face as it steadily advances about two metres a day is spectacular. The day before I arrive there, I am informed that its ice arch has finally collapsed into the river; an event that occurs about once every four years or so with its remnants floating away.  The event occurs at about 3am in the morning ( as it did the previous time) so no one but the time-lapse cameras actually witness it.

The Fitz Roy range next to El Chalten, which is within the national park is stunning and offers numerous day treks into the mountain range without the need for any bus transfer. It is the sort of place that I could easily revisit with my tent and sleeping bag so that I could catch the sunrise rays illuminating the snow covered rock faces.

To travel in Patagonia usually means crossing the border between Argentina and Chile a few times, so it is advisable to have plenty of pages in ones passport! As I write, I am travelling on a four day cruise ship journey through the islands, fjords and glaciers off the Southwestern coast of Chile. It is enchanting, beautiful and somewhat windy journey to the Lakes District; a place for adventure, wine tasting and so much more I am told.

Ciao for now.

A Setting Sun in the big cities

We have come at the end of February and my last two days in Buenos Aires, where I have given myself the luxury of staying in a private single room in a friendly, quiet hostel that attracts the more mature traveler.  This is just what I need after the excesses of the previous festivities. It feels like the end of the first stage of my journey; a feeling that I expected because my flight was booked before my initial departure.

 I have decided to use my time here to rest, to catch up with some friends and source some decent books to read. I am not a convert to electronic books and I have concerns that I will not find what I want to read. I am yet to find a second hand English language book exchange shop the like of which that are prevalent in India, here in Argentina or Brazil. Fortunately I do find a really good one back in San Telmo and buy three books which will give me enough engrossing reading material for the next month or so. This will be supplemented by my Spanish exercises that still remain to be completed from the classes I took last month. I greet every successful Spanish conversation with a local with a smile of satisfaction as if it were a small victory in my war with words.

Another task I have set myself is to also procure some half decent underwear! From what I have seen thus far, the shops mostly sell pants made from polyester. What kind of people  are they out here? All I want to do is to walk into a department store to select and pay for decent boxers without having a conversation about it in one of the many smaller mens’ shops.  My quest is finally over when I see a Zara store in the upmarket barrio of Ricoleta.  Bingo! My friend Ali and I still have to discern between the cotton and synthetic underwear but I finally find what I need so much after two months of relative discomfort!

Due to government  import restrictions,  many items are just not available here in Argentina; the most surprising of which are guitar plectrums.  I can’t be certain whether the country manufactures these harmless bits of plastic, but I was told by a salesperson in a well-stocked musical instrument shop that he had none to sell.  I suspect that Argentina is getting by, but not in a way in which they are now used to. Time for me to cut to size a plectrum or two from my shaving cream can top!

Next stop Ushuaia - 'the town at the end of the World' , well the nearest one to the Falkland Islands.

Peace

G

Rio-Carnaval!

 I am writing this piece from the beautiful Brazilian island called Ilha Grande, which is about three hours South of Rio. It has lovely beaches that are mostly accessed by boat, although the more energetic can use the trails. I have elected not to attempt such feats as it is far too hot and humid to contemplate. The island offers much welcome rest bite from Rio, and Carnaval!

Previous experience had led me to stay down in Ipanema as it is an area that is not awash with pickpockets and other miscreants; just travelers and locals mixing in and having a good time in the more upmarket end of town.  Carnaval week started with a group of us having a large one seeing Armand Van Buren at a large and stylish DJ event party by the docks of Gloria. What followed is what I can only describe as the biggest party in the World, bar none. 

I have never witnessed so many people, over so many days, during all hours, in all city districts, party so hard in all of the bars, clubs and most amazingly the streets. They are known as a bloco party and they consist of samba floats and loud beats vibrating the streets, which are full of revelers in all forms of fancy dress. The vibe is incredible as hundreds to thousands of people drink, pose, and dance in the sun. There is a great sense of fun, and togetherness in trying to have the best time of it whilst not missing out on all of it.

I went with some friends to purchase tickets for the actual procession at the Sambdrome , and in that journey we partied at 5 separate bloco’s, without even attempting to find them!  The main carnival itself was a spectacular show which was a thrill to be there after imagining it for so many years. We were in the cheap seats at the end of the parade line. It did, however, offer great views of all of the different dance troupes of each school congregating at the finish line, all cheering each other on. The sequence of dancers and floats lasts for about 75 minutes and the shows are all amazing in their creativity and execution. The best news of all was that my friend Gladys participated in the parade of the winning school, known as de Tijuca.  It felt great to be cheering on the winning team as I was told how the marking system consists of various judges scoring on various aspects of the performance. The Carioca  (inhabitants of Rio) build a purpose built massive open air dance theatre holding 90,000. Magic!

I have met some good people here again in Rio who have all been so friendly and fun to hang with. The hostel more or less retained all of its guests over the period so it was a good chance to settle in instead of adjusting to new comers. I shall definitely be back here again for it and I urge you to make similar plans.

Next stop Patagonia, which has been on my to go list for a long time now. Can't wait!

Peace

G

The Streeets of San Telmo, Buenos Aires

It has been about three weeks since my last blog. During the first week here in Buenos Aires I found myself partying along with everybody else. My arrival here from Iguazu was smooth and I had little trouble settling into the European style vibe in this great city. 

The main reason I wanted to come here now was to study and to practice some Spanish. After three weeks of classes I have certainly learnt a great deal but I still have a long way to go before I feel entirely at ease. It is not so much the speaking if one is initiating the conversation, it is the listening and understanding of others, especially in large and loud groups.

An advantage of going to the college is that it has allowed me to stay in a family’s home, along with about ten fellow language students. I realize that after two months it is the first time that I have actually stayed on my own in my own en-suite room, without having to deal with anyone else. Bliss!  And to top it all off it has a TV which receives ESPN and the Premier League games. Perfecto!

Going out here is fairly easy; the taxis are cheap, no real door policy at bars and clubs, and they stay open between 5-7 am all week.  I took the opportunity to play in a live jam session at one particular cool bar in the barrio of Palermo.  Whilst playing on stage, I felt at home in BA and with its whole music vibe. Musicians play everywhere here and it is great to hear them play and dance so well.

The challenges one has to face here include: keeping appointments on time as journeys tend to take longer than ever anticipated; avoiding the dog poo and general rubbish which pervades most streets; keeping cool in the 30deg plus heat; and eating well.

For all the talk of their beef I have been disappointed with the overall cuisine and variety on offer. The food on offer at the cheaper cafes and restaurants rarely stray from very average pizza to beef steak sandwiches that resemble a breeze block! At the more expensive restaurants it is possible to order fish and vegetables, however, the by far the best thing to do if possible is to cook at home if the kitchen is up to it.

Overall, Buenos Aires is a cool city in so many ways and probably unique in the Americas for being as modern as it is.  I have met some really cool people here who have come from the UK and are making it work for them here and it is encouraging and inspiring to know them.

My next stop is Rio again, this time for Carnival which I am really looking forward to. I have some idea of what to expect and it feels good to be returning to somewhere which I am already familiar. At least I know that eating well here is so much easier, especially at the per kilo restaurants. I can’t wait. Vamos! 

Iguaçu Falls but remains to fight another day!

It is not easy pulling myself from the Floripa beaches but the prospect of seeing the spectacular waterfalls at Iguaçu is far too great, notwithstanding the 15 hour coach journey required to get to them.  It has been one of the must-do places to see after what I have read and heard about its magnificence. I had been to visit Niagara Falls last Summer with my brother where we discussed seeing other natural beauties; so it is thrilling to be so close to them now. Typically, it was raining upon arrival at the Brazilian town of Foz de Iguaçu, but Evelina, the owner of the Evelina Pousada, reassured me that it was the first and last amount of rain expected for a while.

A pousada offers private rooms with cooking facilities where the owner ensures its smooth running for its guests. It is a good option if one wishes to get away from the 12 bed dorm scenario often found in hostels I have seen thus far. Far more pleasingly, they tend not to have CCTV watching ones every move it would seem as is the case in Rio.  I appreciate the security aspect of this system but not the invasion of ones privacy.

The Falls are situated where the borders of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay meet and one can view the falls from either or both the Argentine/Brazilian sides. They are indeed very spectacular from any viewpoint and the power and noise emanating from the Devil’s Throat part of the Falls is astounding to witness.  It takes two days to visit the Falls properly and it involves crossing the Argentine border and back over to Brazil in one day.

Although Paraguay’s borders do not encompass the Falls itself, it’s nearby town does offer excellent tax-free shopping and specializes in the sale of electronics goods such as cameras, phones and computers. A tax-free haven full of bandits and dodgy knock-off gear may be an accurate description but it does not deter me from purchasing the Samsung notebook that I am now typing this blog entry on.  I now feel back on-track and online which is a considerable relief.  I thought that I could get by with just using my iphone but it sure feels good to be touch typing away on this cheeky little number. Thank you relatively inexpensive Paraguay! 

Next stop Buenos Aires baby! Ciao.

In Search of some Southern Sun

It has been a couple of weeks since my initial blog, which is due to my not having much access to a computer that does not cost by the minute.  I felt the need to escape Rio after the New Year in search of some chilled out beach action.  I had heard of a place in Southern Brazil called Florianopolis, or Floripa which promised everything and it did not disappoint.

But before I could enjoy the place, I had to negotiate Rio’s international airport and the chaos caused by the airline carrier’s lack of information and organization at the check in desks.  I am sure that I can become used to it but I would rather not have to go through the hassle if at all possible. I think I have the time to use the coaches as their appeal becomes greater despite the time/distance equation. 

After two stops and one change of plane, we finally arrive at Floripa and instantly I feel a much relaxed vibe here. I had read that the rich, white middle class Brazilians here were a breed apart and it felt as much, as I did not think for any moment that I would be relieved of my possessions at any point.

 The town of Floripa is situated at the point of entry of a beautiful peninsula called Santa Catarina, which holds many beautiful beaches of varying sizes and vibe. We choose a small part of the island that has a simple beauty as it mixes up its beach and picturesque estuary with locals, backpackers and many Argentinian short holiday makers.

What left an impression with me were the beach bars that held wonderful samba dances and local bands. The Brazilians do not need a second invitation to dance with a partner to this music so I felt inspired to learn and practice a few moves with them without too much embarrassment.  It is also the place where I feel that I have properly heard Samba, Bossa Nova and some Jazz- all backed up by terrific sea views and the sound of the waves shifting the sands.  To hear just a few guitarists playing this music using an array of jazz chords is a joy and an inspiration.

There is also the scope to really party here a la Ibiza style and we felt it rude not to do so a little. So we partied by the pool at a large party that was supported by house DJs and the rich and beautiful, who happily paraded around whilst spending lots on drink and having access to previously reserved lounge tables.   I look forward to returning here with more of my party gear in tow. Bring it on!